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Süha’nın Yeri June 24, 2010

Posted by Steven Bartus in Quick Eats, Turkish Cuisine.
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Döner kebab is everywhere in Ankara, but the honest truth of the matter is that most are pretty average. Dryness and poor-quality meat unfortunately tend to be all-too-common features in the majority of offerings. For the tiny amount you pay, though, it’s usually bearable and still a sufficiently tasty bite to eat.

Some döner, of course, is better than others. In a previous post, I profiled Gülsoy, my favorite quick-and-cheap eatery on Sakarya Cad. They tend to make a good product that is consistent and avoids the pitfalls mentioned above. But in the end it’s still fairly conventional.

Süha’nın Yeri is a different story. Their döner is made from veal, an uncommon meat to find in Turkey and certainly a surprise to see in this particular form. The result is delicious and puts a new spin on one of the world’s fast-food favorites.

The veal at Süha’nın Yeri is special (or so the manager told me). It is sourced from a particular butcher, and all of the tendons are meticulously removed before it is marinated for a day. The meat is then stacked and rotated in front of charcoal instead of the typical gas flame found in most döner places. And rather than serving it in the standard yarım ekmek, the final product is inserted into a hallowed-out piece of toasted bread. Onion and tomatoes come on the side to be added according to your taste.

This is not a change-your-life sort of meal, but the döner at Süha’nın Yeri is undoubtedly very good. I appreciate the innovation on a classic item that, as I said earlier, can be quite average at times. If you ever find yourself tiring of the options prevalent on the streets of Kızılay, I’d give this one a try.

Süha’nın Yeri is located on Bestekar Sk. in Kavaklıdere (Google Maps). It is only open for lunch each day, starting at 11:00 and closing usually around 14:00. There was a steady stream of people coming in and out while I was there today, always a good sign in any restaurant.

The döner at Süha’nın Yeri, being made of high-quality veal, is much more expensive than normal. One portion costs 10TL ($6.30 at 1.58TL/$). If you’re have a big appetite, you should probably get the bir bucuk size for 15TL ($9.50). Köfte is also served, but I can’t comment on the quality as I have not tried it yet.