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Köz Köfte June 27, 2010

Posted by Steven Bartus in Turkish Cuisine.
Tags: ,

Köfte, like döner, is another ubiquitous favorite of Turkish cuisine around the city, and also like döner, it comes in varying degrees of quality. In the early days of this blog, I wrote about Roka, a köfte joint in Bahçelievler that puts a twist on the norm with a large, table-top salad. Through an email from Başask, I learned that there are more places in Ankara that offer this option. She recommended Köz Köfte in Ulus for an even better version of the offerings at Roka. Yesterday, I finally got around to making to the trip across town and would agree with Başak: it’s definitely better.

The formula at Köz Köfte is familiar: a collection of greens and other veggies are spread over the table, doused with lemon juice and topped with roasted garlic and tomatoes. Köz Köfte, though, makes a nice addition with several pieces of çiğ köfte. While I will admit that this particular batch was very much on the average side, it was still a great complement to the lettuce and lemon.

You are given three options for your köfte: acılı (spicy), sade (plain) and kaşarlı (with cheese). Given my preference for spice, I went with the acılı. It was fresh and nicely prepared. In particular, I appreciated that it was not inundated with salt. The meal is finished with a serving of delicious helva, which compares favorably to that of Recep Usta and Çukurağa Sofrası.

The sentiment that I expressed back in September about Roka and last week about the döner at Süha’nın Yeri is also applicable with Köz Köfte: this is not a life-changing meal. The köfte is very tasty and I like the addition of the salad to the meal, but I still tend to find that the best köfte in Ankara comes from the mobile eateries that I wrote about in January.

Although novel compared to the norm, the salad-köfte model remains in need of innovation. It’s not enough to spread a bunch of greens on top of a table. Köz Köfte is on the right track with the çiğ köfte, but why not include some ezme and maybe hummus as well? Without a few additions, the salad will always feel somewhat underutilized.

Köz Köfte is on Kazım Karabekir Cad. (Google Maps). A portion of köfte with drink comes to around 14TL ($8.90 at 1.58TL/$).


1. Başak - June 27, 2010

Hi Steven. I m so glad that you gave a shot to Köz Köfte and that you liked it 🙂
By the way, they sometimes serve Patlıcanlı Ezme as well. I think they just serve this when they find nice and fresh eggplants.
But when I looked at your photos I realized how I missed that helva. I think that is the best thing that they serve and I must visit there quickly:)

Steven Bartus - June 28, 2010

I love ezme. I wish they had it when I was there. And I would agree with you: the helva might be the best thing they serve.

2. Köşebaşı « Eating Ankara - June 30, 2010

[…] used this life-changing language in several posts over the past few weeks to convey what several places did not offer. This is not a mark of disappointment. It’s unreasonable to go into […]

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